TrueSouth episode 11 review: Fort Benning, Georgia
Our Southern culinary shaman John T. Edge takes us along for the ride to Fort Benning & Phenix City, AL in the latest episode of TrueSouth.
By: Bossman Slim
Photo: Bluefoot Entertainment
We’re starting something new here at B&S: TrueSouth reviews. And since we’re a new entity and TrueSouth has been on for two seasons, we’ll be reviewing in reverse, starting with the newest episode that just aired last night, Sunday, January 31st. Every Monday we’ll review an episode, and when new ones come out, we’ll review those too.
If you’ve never seen the SEC Network modern classic show, it’s a good time you start watching. All episodes will be airing on SEC Network today (they’re already going!), so set your DVRs for the rest of the episodes. You can find the schedule at the end of the article.
TrueSouth is the down-home, fried, and alcohol-soaked southern cousin of the late culinary pioneer Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown,” the heir to Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives throne.” Host John T. Edge, a writer by trade, explores the South, visiting towns both well-known and little-known, talking to people just like you and me to get a feel for the place, its history, and how it came to be in the present day. Oh, and he shows you the best dang food spots you’re going to find in each town, leaving you salivating like a bloodhound in front of your TV and planning a road trip before the episode ends. Plus, Wright Thompson is an executive producer and reads the Yellawood ads. Even if I was broke and in jail, Thompson could still sell me 10 pallets of Yellawood. Edge and Thompson sure can wax poetic.
This week, Edge was in Fort Benning, GA, with a detour into Phenix City, Alabama at the end of the episode. But before we get into that...man, that cold open to start the episode will give you chills. Fort Benning, as the name implies, is a military outpost at the edge of Columbus, GA, a training ground for our nation’s soldiers. So to open the episode, we get a military cadence with scenes of the town coupled with soldier’s training. You’ll have to watch it for yourself - our words will not do the visual justice. No one knows how to do an intro quite like the TrueSouth team. You can get a taste of the intro below:
The start of the episode begins with Edge at a small cafe in a strip center, Rose’s Caribbean Restaurant, whose motto is: “Until the last soldier is fed.” While watching Edge speak to Rose and feeling her warmth and kindness through the screen, I couldn’t help but think that we need more of Rose’s spirit in America today. More of what brings us together, less of what divides us. More friendship, more connection, more meals and laughs shared, more pride in our shared values as Americans. More of that motherly love that Rose shows to our nation’s men and women in uniform.
One of the things I love most about TrueSouth is when Edge will walk through the history of a dish with the subject, and how it intertwines with history and the present day iteration in the town he is in. Rose speaking of how Jamaican jerk chicken came to be, all the way back to the Maroons in Jamaica to what type of peppers are used today, is fascinating to learn while at the same time making your stomach growl.
I’ve never been to Fort Benning or Columbus, but I was struck by the beauty of the town along the Chattahoochee River. I was unaware there was a dam there that had powered the town for many years until the dam was blown up and water allowed to flow freely again. I understand the need for some dams and the power that they can provide for us - but I am a conservationist and naturalist at heart. The view of a free-flowing river, with fly fisherman, kayakers, and swimmers enjoying a clean river is much more appealing to me than a dam. With the dam outliving its usefulness, Columbus is now a poster child for how to return a river to its natural glory. The aerial shots along the river are stunning - no wonder there is such a vibrant young community in Columbus, with more moving there by the day!
Next up was a stop in Phenix City, Alabama, just across the river and state lines from Columbus. A place I learned is marked by a history of lawlessness and lewd behavior but is working toward a new day. The people who have stayed in Phenix City are tough - they’ve seen a lot and endured through it all to try and build something new, but still view outsiders with a bit of hesitance. But one thing for outsiders to quickly move past any hesitation on: the food. Edge heads to 14th Street Grill and gets a feast of hot dogs and chili dogs. Good, cheap, hearty. Just see for yourself:
Looking forward to our next stop on the TrueSouth train with Mr. Edge.
Check out the full schedule of episodes, re-airing today on SEC Network. Set your DVRs! And don’t forget to grab a hat while you’re at it.